COCA DE SANT JOAN
A Catalan midsummer tradition where bonfires, legends, and the sweet Coca de Sant Joan bring neighbors together under the stars.
LA REVETLLA DE SANT JOAN, JUNE 23rd
In times past, Saint John’s Eve—a “profane” night dedicated to the adoration of the sun—was believed to be a time when mythical creatures would come out from their hiding places in the forest and join the world of the living. While each region had its own terrifying creature, the majority of people believed in witches, from both the mountains and the sea, who were thought to gather alongside warlocks and demons and move feverishly along to the ball rodó folk dance all through the night.
If you visit any town in Catalonia on Saint John’s Eve, you’ll witness this celebration, which is usually centered around a huge bonfire whose flames reach up to the sky—the bigger, the better. In the past, it was believed that the fire would help fruit grow. Nowadays, in smaller towns, the children help collect old wooden utensils, furniture, cardboard, and anything else they’re given to ensure the fire reaches great heights.
It’s tradition to eat coques during the celebration, and neighbors usually share the pastries among themselves. In the olden days, households would prepare their Saint John’s coques to take to the village oven, shaping them into circles with a hole in the middle to represent the sun. Later on, bakers began to prepare them; these coques were generally large so that they could be split among neighbors, with each neighborhood making its own variety. In order to bake such large portions, bakers developed careful techniques. The neighborhood would set up a small group of porters to transport the finished coca, which they would carry on their shoulders, with more neighbors trailing behind. Each Saint John’s Eve the neighbors would compete for the title of best coca, and the oldest neighbor—with a preference given to those named Joan, or John—would then have the honor of cutting it just after midnight.
These kinds of coques were covered in sugar, pine nuts, and candied fruit, and were often served alongside dessert wine or spirits. It was customary to eat the coca outdoors, as doing so indoors would bring bad fortune.
Today, Saint John’s coques are still eaten all throughout Catalonia, and while we still build our bonfires, we’ve yet to catch a glimpse of those legendary witches.
Traditional Coca de Sant Joan
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